Framing II


I’m back ‘on track’ the Truck Shop is all framed and much better than the first time. Guess the glue disaster was a good thing. Only took two sessions of about 4 total hours to rebuild. It is actually my first. This is my first model unless you count those things as a kid where you ended up with Testor’s Cement as the texture all over the outside of a plane or boat or whatever. I hated them. Mine never stayed together if they didn’t get broken in the first place.

Well must go off to a party”

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Railroad Line Forums

Well guys…
I have wax paper and double stick tape and all. Not to mention two ends framed. They are going together much easier and more exactly this time. Maybe the first time was intended as practice. The Tractor Shop will be more solid now.
Off to finish the front and back framing.

Somebody take my credit card. I bought a compressor at Harbor tonight to replace the one I just bought from Hobby Town–Blue one from Testors. The new one is 3hp with a 8g tank. I tried out the airbrush and good pressure makes all the difference. I could probably drive nails with this too. Well if I return old blue that is an even trade.

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Railroad Line Forums


Here it is my first framing that worked!

Thanks guys all the post but especially the last few have helped a great deal!

St. Nick I have revised my Christmas wish list. I’ll buy one of every SW if you will leave them built under my tree. I have been a good boy. I can work on Minden Flour, so don’t worry about my not having anything to do. “

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Hooked

Y’all are making me dangerous before I started hanging here I would have driven right past. I stopped in a hole in the wall train store Cook’s Trains in Shreveport, LA a couple of times this week for spray paint and such. Each time I eyed a dusty old box in the corner — C C Crow’s Minden Flour Milling Co. Well today I just plopped down the old credit card and bought it for what it listed for on his old site before BIS less than the $250. listed today if he has it.

It looks like fun, very different than SW.

My name is Wallace and I’m a kit builder. I have been 5 hours without buying a kit. I like the smell of dusty old boxes even the mothball smell of SW. I need help.”

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Rock Walls

Ok Guys…
I have been doing this by the book and suggestions gathered here.
but…
I finally got the base coat on the rock walls tonight…
Floquil spray concrete.
I don’t like it as a base coat too silvery doesn’t look like the beginnings of rock to me.
The outside looks better than the inside because of the rock imprint. The inside doesn’t even look like concrete walls to me and you don’t really weather the inside. I know for the most part not seen but I know it is there.

This is the second thing I’m too picky about. I was disappointed with my staining of bag 5 with that different method. They are much darker than 1-4 which I liked.

I was thinking about using some thinner to clean the concrete off the walls and starting over using some of the suggestions from Foss. Maybe with an earth base coat thinned and brushed on. What do you think?”

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Spray Paint

Hi all…I just couldn’t stay away any longer or eat another bite.

My family has decided I have totally lost it. On our Thanksgiving trip I planned stops in cities with big hobby shops a lot of HobbyTowns looking for Floquil. Many stores arn’t carrying it anymore. I finally hit the jackpot in Jackson, MS and stocked up.

However, I never found the Floquil spray paints listed in the RRC instructions. Is there any reason I can’t just mix up a batch of regular Floquil thinned 50/50 for my airbrush? I think I have all the colors in the 1oz bottles?”

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Sign

Ok I have the blabs tonight…
I thought you might be interested in what I decided to do about the coke sign. If you don’t remember the Coke sign is on a warehouse directly across the street from the Clinchfield station. With your help I found a copy of the sign in new condition on the net. I am going to use Photoshop — The technique desribed here from TechTV:

Blend a Sign into the Background in Photoshop

Use alpha channel magic to merge images.

Say you have an image and you want to blend it into a background image (in our case, wood). I’ll demonstrate how to blend an image into its background in Photoshop so that sign and background will blend into one. Here are the steps.

  1. Turn off the Sign Layer.
  2. Copy the Blue Channel.
  3. Use Levels to increase the contrast of the Copied Blue Channel. This will make sure there’s still some of the sign left.
  4. Load the Channel as a selection.
  5. Hit Cmd + J on a Mac or Ctrl + J on a PC to “Float” the selection (create a new layer with the selected image).
  6. For extras, you can add a Grunge selection and float that too. It will pull more of the paint randomly.
  7. You can also use the Distort — Displace filter to push the sign around a little. Use the wood image to have the sign look like it’s melded over the wood..
  8. Use the Unsharp Mask to tighten up the image a little.
  9. Use the Render-Lighting Effects to add a little texture to the image. By using the wood grain you can make the image look a little more shaded.
  10. Play with the layer blending modes to see the possible effects.

to fade away the weaker colors just substituting a brick wall for the wood one. Then I am going turn off the layer with the wall and send the file to be made into a decal. I am looking for a custom decal place that the decal can be burnished into the brick of the model. Of the ones mentioned before who would do this the best??? Finally, I am going to weather the building with the sign in place with the normal washes and chalks. What do you think? I’m hoping for a faded worn out sign much like the one in the picture I posted. I discovered that the black tar streak was where another building roof since torn down covered the coke sign. I probably will leave the tar out.
Somebody stop me rambling.

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Station at Johnson City

The old Clinchfield station in Johnson City, TN continues to draw me in. The station is in bad shape but they are trying to save it. The roof is almost gone. The Clinchfield and ET&WNC (Tweetsie) met at that station. NS & CSX still travel the old Clinchfield line in front of it today. The old state foundry was blocks up the street. Kingsport intermodal yard is not far away (15 miles by rail) and the Jonesbourgh the oldest town in TN with many old structures is on the line. So in my fantasy layout the end of steam meets deisel intermodal around Johnson City. Since the ET&WNC is no longer around except for some great old tunnels and decaying bridges I decided the part of ET&WNC I would model would be steam, coal, lumber, foundry, etc. I have pictures of all the old structures. There is a church camp in Doe Creek Gorge that is a great place to visit where you can walk or ride through history. On the Clinchfield side I am going to do CSX modern coal and NS intermodal. The only place they meet is Johnson City and all within a 20 mile stretch of track. I now need to decide if I am going to do the ET&WNC in narrow gauge being faithful and limit my options or HO. The track between Johnson City and Elizabethton was dual so maybe I do dual. I plan another picture trip next week when I get back for Thanksgiving to Kingsport to capture more of the modern stuff intermodal, chemical Eastman, another old foundry and station. I wish I knew where to get more detailed rail maps than the route map one with some indication of siding and yards.

By the way I am thinking about spring training through TN, NC, VA, & WV. I’d start at Great Smokie and end up at Cass with Doe and the Mine museum among others in between. Flea bag hotels”

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Supplies

I ordered a set of Grumbacher Soft Pastels Landscape last night they were hard to find. Michael’s doesn’t carry them anymore and on many online sites they were out of stock.
I finally found them — 1 LandscapeClose Out:Grumbacher Soft Pastel SetsGR00/L $22.50 at Reuels.com. Anybody know if they have been totally discontinued? I was looking for them based on Brett’s Color list.

Hey by the time I’m done stocking up the supplies and tools will have cost as much as my kit order from SW. I am framing and laying out my first walls.

Well got to go wait on packages from Reuels, Woodland Scenic, Kapplers, Serria, Scenic Express and Micro-Mark. And Wednesday the new HobbyTownUSA opens here”

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Started – Glue?

RRC is coming well the strips are stained and the casts are cleaned. Drilling the cast do you drill both resin and metal? With what size bit and by hand? Would a drop of CA hold the tooth pick instead of drilling. By the way what is the difference in CA which I understood and ACC?

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